1998 Honda St1100 Workshop Manual
Clymer Manuals Honda ST1100/Pan European 1990-2002 repair manual is written specifically for the do-it-yourself enthusiast. Unlike OEM 'factory' manuals, which are designed for the professional motorcycle mechanic, Clymer shop manuals are designed specifically for the first time user. The most important tool in your tool box may be your Clymer manual, get one today. What's in your toolbox? DIY do it yourself How-to ask the expert motorcycle shop service manuals for maintenance, troubleshooting and repair on your 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 Honda ST1100 Pan European motorcycle. From the basics to getting your ride ready for a cross country Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance trek or tackling the Iron Butt rally, these are the manuals you need.
More detailed than the OEM factory available online not a free digital download pdf or Haynes and written for the average joe. Each manual features specifications specs: GENERAL INFORMATION safety, fasteners, supplies, tools, electrical system fundamentals, basic service methods and storage. TROUBLESHOOTING operating requirements, starting, engine performance and noises, engine leakdown test, electrical troubleshooting, ignition system troubleshooting, starting system troubleshooting, fuel system troubleshooting, suspension troubleshooting and clutch and brakes troubleshooting. LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP maintenance schedule intervals, battery, spark plugs plug, engine compression test, ignition timing, valve clearance adjustment, carburetor adjustments and synchronization, fuel filter,engine oil and filter change, final drive gearcase gear case oil change, emissions control system, steering head bearings, tires and wheels. EXHAUST SYSTEM muffler, header, heat shields, ENGINE timing belt cover, timing belt and pulleys, camshaft and valve lifters, cam reduction gear assembly, cylinder head and valve components engine removal, engine mounts, engine installation, crankcase crank case, connecting rods, piston and piston rings, crankshaft crank shaft, primary drive gear, starter clutch, oil pump chain and sprockets and oil cooler.
1998 Honda St1100 Workshop Manual Download
CLUTCH hydraulic system, clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, bleeding the clutch TRANSMISSION AND SHIFT MECHANISM external shift mechanism, case, internal shift mechanism, inspection and primary damper shaft FUEL & EMMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS air box, air filter, carburetor carb inspection and troubleshooting, hose identification, carb assembly / disassembly / inspection, carburetor adjustment, fuel tank, fuel valve, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel cut-off relay, fuel indicator lamp, fuel sensor, PAIR system, EVAP purge control vavle, EVAP carb air vent control valve and carbon canister.
Hi, Borerpaul before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses. If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short. If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find. If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection.
Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with an ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less. Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any number reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. $20 Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Jan 14, 2018. Hi, David before you can diagnose any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is 'IMPERATIVE' your battery must be fully charged to 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test because your battery may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. Your starter motor stays engaged because the solenoid positive plunger contact plate/disc has spot welded itself to the negative contact shoes usually caused by low battery voltage, faulty starter relay, or button.
Your starter motor has two main systems the motor itself and the starter solenoid which transfers high amperage to the motor enabling it to turn over your engine, your issue only involves the starter solenoid and may be repaired without removing the starter in most cases and depending on the model of your Harley may require removing the rear exhaust pipe if it's in the way. The solenoid is the part that has a large copper stud protruding from it that the positive battery cable connects to. Start by disconnecting the battery negative cable and wrapping the cable terminal with any kind of tape so it will not accidentally touch metal and make all electrical circuits hot again, remove the starter solenoid cap, secured with 3 screws 1989 and later or 2 screws 1988 and earlier, with a screwdriver break away the contact plate from the shoes and clean/dress all electrical arc residue. In order to diagnose the starter circuit, you must start with a fully charged battery, 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test if necessary. The battery cables and terminals must be clean and tight. The 'NEGATIVE' cable is famous for corroding and or breaking inside the harness, check the terminals at both ends. Check your starter relay with a test light for continuity, it could be faulty due to corrosion and sticking in a closed configuration, another claim to fame.
Finally, there is the starter solenoid, low battery voltage or faulty battery connections will cause extremely high amperage at the plate and contact shoes and rob the hold in coils of much-needed voltage. In extreme cases, the solenoid plunger plate will literally spot weld itself to the contact shoes, keeping the circuit closed and thus permanent engagement. Another scenario is unacceptable voltage drop to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter button, and finally to the solenoid.
Remove the green wire from the starter solenoid and hook up the positive lead of your voltmeter to the green wire connector and ground the negative lead. Turn on the ignition switch and depress starter button, the voltage reading should be no more than 1/2 volt less than the battery voltage.
If it is more than 1/2 volt you need to backtrack that part of the circuit with your voltmeter until you find the voltage robbing offender. Next, remove the solenoid plunger, dress the plate and the contact shoes of arching residue and make sure the contact shoes are tight and secure. If you have done all of the above, replace the green starter button wire, hook up your voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage drop when you start the engine, anything below 9 volts could indicate a faulty battery and a proper load test should be performed. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Nov 03, 2017. Hi, Roby and the usual suspects are: 1.
Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system. Loose float bowl screws. Damaged float bowl o-ring. Improper fuel level in the float bowl. Worn or dirty inlet valve or seat.
Damaged or leaking float assembly. Particle contamination in inlet fitting cavity. Damaged petcock diaphragm allowing fuel to flow through the vacuum line into the combustion chamber. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
$14 Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Sep 12, 2017. Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are: 1.
Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark 5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor. Dirty air filter. Intake air leak. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly. Multiple carburetors out of sync. Fuel filter clogged. Old or contaminated fuel.
Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
Carburetor controls misadjusted. Incorrect valve timing. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
Damaged intake or exhaust valve. Incompatible performance parts. Control module may be in 'LIMP' mode 26.
Check for engine trouble codes. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
$14 Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Aug 05, 2017. Hi, Sschweig mooie novelle de volgende is een uitgebreide laadsysteem test die is gegarandeerd de vondst probleem met uw systeem. Accu Test: De batterij moet in een volledig opgeladen en de belasting getest om de juiste lezingen te verzekeren, moeten aansluitingen schoon en strak te zijn. Als u niet werkt met een volledig opgeladen en functionele batterij, zullen alle andere spanningstesten onjuist zijn. Staande batterij De spanning moet 12,5-13,2 DCV zijn. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorfiets, het meten van DC volt over de accupolen u een lezing van ongeveer 13,2-15 DC Volt zou moeten hebben.
Aansluitingen / Draad: Controleer de regelaar / stator plug, en de batterij voor aansluiting / corrosie. Als alles lijkt in orde zijn, ga dan naar nummer 4 hieronder om te bepalen of er een defect onderdeel. Stator Checks / Rotor Check: elk van de volgende tests isoleert de stator en rotor. Als AC Output test mislukt en Resistance controleren, en de stator IB Test Pass dan Rotor in gebreke is gebleven (Trek Primary covers en controleer rotor op beschadigingen). AC Output Check: Trek de regelaar stekker uit de stator Start motor en verander voltmeter AC volt.
Probe beide stator draden met uw meter lood. De motor moet worden blussen van ongeveer 18-20 ACV per 1.000 rpm. Reading zal vari?ren afhankelijk van het systeem, controleer service manual specificatie Generic Specs: 22 amp produceert ongeveer 19-26 VAC per 1000 rpm 32 amp produceert ongeveer 16-20 VAC per 1000 rpm 45 amp produceert ongeveer 19-26 VAC per 1000 rpm Statorweerstand Check: Schakel uw multimeter Ohm x 1 schaal. Probe elke stator draden met meter leidingen en controleer weerstand op de meter. Weerstand moet in het bereik van 0,1-0,5 Ohm. Reading zal vari?ren afhankelijk van het systeem, controleer service handleiding voor de specificatie Generic Specs: 22 amp produceert ongeveer 0,2 tot 0,4 ohm 32 amp produceert ongeveer 0,1 tot 0,2 ohm 45 amp produceert ongeveer 0,1 tot 0,2 ohm Stator IB-test of Ground Check: Schakel uw multimeter Ohm x 1 schaal.
Probe elke stator kabel met de positieve draad op de multimeter en negatieve aarde. Er mag geen continu?teit aan de grond aan beide draad. Als er continu?teit is uw stator grond is kortgesloten naar aarde. Regulator Test: elk van de volgende tests isoleert de toezichthouder alleen, dus als een van deze tests mislukt, de regelaar een fout heeft begaan. Het identificeren van draden: Batterij opladen Lead Wire gaande van regulator om de batterij positief. AC-uitgang leads- draden uit de stator aan de toezichthouder.
Grond- Wire van Regulator naar aarde of regulator kan worden geaard via de fysieke bouten chassis. Regulator grondtestartikelen: Controleer de regulatorlichaam geaard of aardingskabel stevig bevestigd aan een goede grond (moet dit controleren door het controleren van de continu?teit van regelaarlichaam tot chassisaarde).
Fwd / Reverse Bias Test / Diode Test: Deze controle is het testen van de Diode functie om ervoor te zorgen zij regels stelt voor de AC-stroom voor de stator in DC Current. Schakel multimeter naar Diode Scale.
Plaats uw multimeter positieve draad op elke AC-uitgang draad. Plaats uw multimeter negatief lood over de batterijlading draad. De meter moet spanning meestal gelezen rond 0,5 volt. Vervolgens schakelt u de multimeter leads zetten de negatieve draad aan de uitgang draden AC en de positieve draad over de batterijlading Wire.
De meting moet oneindig zijn. Met de meter op dezelfde instelling, plaats je multimeter positieve draad rond de regulator aarddraad of de regelaar rechtstreeks en plaats de meter negatieve draad op de AC uitgangsleidingen. De meter moet spanning meestal gelezen rond 0,5 volt. Vervolgens schakelt u de multimeter leads zetten de negatieve draad op de regelaar grond en de positieve draad aan de uitgang draden AC.
De meting moet oneindig zijn. Let op: Hieronder staat een tabel met de metingen te laten zien: Positieve Lead Negatieve Lead Reading AC uitgang 1 batterijlading voorsprong Voltage AC uitgang 2 batterijlading Lead Voltage Acculading lead AC uitgang 1? Acculading lead AC uitgang 2? Ground AC uitgang 1 Voltage Ground AC uitgang 2 Voltage AC uitgang 1 Ground? AC uitgang 2 Ground? Voor meer informatie over uw probleem en waardevolle 'FREE' downloads die je nodig hebt, klik dan op de blauwe links hieronder. Veel succes en hebben een prachtige dag.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Mar 29, 2017. Hi, Wayne start with # 5 and the usual suspects are: 1. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system. Transport processes and separation principles solutions manual. Loose float bowl screws. Damaged float bowl o-ring. Improper fuel level in the float bowl. Worn or dirty inlet valve or seat.
Damaged or leaking float assembly. Particle contamination in inlet fitting cavity.
For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please visit the websites. Good luck and have nice a day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Apr 25, 2016.
Fluid flows back into the brake fluid reservoir through a pin hole. There is a large opening that feeds the master cylinder. If the fluid return pin hole becomes plugged the pressure builds up in the system till the brake locks up the wheel. My experience is with standard braking systems not ABS but I assume there is still a fluid return hole that is smaller than the feeder hole.
I suggest you take apart the master cylinder and carefully clean it making sure small passageways are clear. Normally minor binding is just a dirty brake cylinder that is not floating correctly. On the road a pressure wash of the caliper and pistons will keep you rolling till you disassemble and properly clean the floating components. With an ABS system there may be a second pressure release system that is keeping the system from locking up. Pressure wash the system. If that does not work, Disassemble and clean the components ( master cylinder assembly and caliper floating components). If that does not work you may have to have a dealer diagnose a possible problem with the ABS system Answered on Dec 20, 2013.
The driving light and all the 'dashboard' lights are supposed to be ON when the key is turned to RUN-even if engine is not running. (blame federal regulators for this dumb idea. Driving light should be wired to come on when engine is running-a simple wiring connection change.) the comment 'and light increases in strength' is a key clue. It describes low battery voltage. Either the battery is not properly charged, or it is faulty. First try 'jumping' the cycle with a good car battery. If the started works-proves the problem is low battery voltage.
The alternator is working-but is the voltage regulator controlling the voltage? Try measuring the battery voltage (not driving) but in neutral at various increasing engine speeds. The voltage across the battery terminals, everything off, should measure about 13.2 volts. With engine running, it should quickly rise to 13.5 V at or just above idle, and not rise much/any more as engine speed increases. If it keeps rising to above 14 V, the voltage regulator is not working and will quickly overcharge and destroy your new battery. Answered on Jun 20, 2009.