Gcv160 Shop Manual
Hi bobender There are more than one gasket between the air cleaner and the engine. I just replaced them on MY GCV160. You can easily get the 4 piece gasket set available for the Honda GCV160 Intake. There are plenty of replacement carburetors available as well. The stock carb is a Japanese Keihin carb. An OEM replacement is not cheap.
The aftermarket Chinese replacement clone carburetors look the same, do the same job and cost almost 2/3 less than a Keihin. Search Honda GCV160 on ebay for the best deals on gaskets and carbs.
See link below. Those parts are available on here if you choose. Link removed. Gentlemen: I removed the head cover from my GCV160 and discovered that at TDC the intake valve lash was over 0.040'. Exhaust measured at 0.006'. I am uncomfortable simply setting the lash to spec and putting the machine back together, and would appreciate guidance. Background: I bought a new Karcher pressure washer equipped with the GCV160 engine.
It now has 40 hours on the engine. Changed oil at 5 hours. Oil level good. But one day the engine would not start.
Good spark, but discovered zero compression. So I pulled the head cover. Discovered the intake valve was not moving freely. Valve stem covered with goo that looked like typical gasoline varnish.
I suppose I left gasoline in the engine and it got stale. I sprayed carb cleaner on the stem and the valve immediately began to move freely. Finger over the plug hole indicates compression is now there. But there is huge clearance between the intake valve stem end and the rocker arm of 0.040'.
I wonder what might cause the strange lash readings. It sounds like there is metal to metal contact so the intake valve appears to be seating. But something is not right.
Any ideas and guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bill. Hi Bill, I have one of these engines. I have not been in it too much internally, just to check the valve lash. This is an OHC engine.
The cam I think is plastic. There must be an issue with your camshaft albeit an odd one for sure.04' certainly is cause for alarm. I would start by checking the condition of the rocker on the Intake and the camshaft itself. You may need to verify the valve is seating and nothing is amiss there.
Please repost and let me know what you find! I just finished reading in a forum where a guy had one that the adjusting nut for the lash stripped the threads. They determined it to be a factory defect; so it will be quite interesting once the cause reveals itself. There could be a problem with the valve spring as well.
I already received a new intake valve rocker arm in the mail today. Recall that I had previously set the valve lash to spec with the old rocker arm, which I thought had been bent. So took the old one off, replaced it with the new one. And it became immediately obvious that the old rocker arm was not bent.
So I don't know why I have developed a mysterious 0.040' valve lash. I am going to make up a temporary paper cover gasket, put the machine back together, fill it with oil and see what happens.
It the engine starts, I imagine it will kill itself in short order. I'll be back in there either replacing a broken rocker arm, resetting the valve lash, or who knows what else. I'll report back tomorrow. Thanks again ShotOut, for all of your help. I have just had a partial success. I reinstalled the head cover and temporary gasket, filled the machine with oil, and fired the thing up.
The following is what happened. Would appreciate your thoughts. Are these symptoms consistent with what you're thinking is the problem? Or could I have another unrelated fuel delivery problem? 1) Closed choke 2) Pulled the started rope 10 times - nothing 3) On the 11th pull, a whimper. I'm excited 4) On the 12th through the 30th pull, it runs for 2 seconds at about half speed, then dies 5) On the 31st pull, it keeps running, though at half speed. Now I'm really excited 6) I let it run for 2 minutes for warm-up, then close the choke.
Gcv160 Repair Manual
Stops firing. I immediately open the choke again and it resumes running, again at half speed 7) I repeat #6 several more times and the same thing happens - the machine will only run at half speed, and dies when I open the choke. Is my next step to pull the head and find out what the valve guides, valves, and seats are telling me? Thanks again. I truly appreciate the help. Regards, Bill. Hello again Bill, You are certainly welcome.
Thanks for keeping us posted. I know that the Honda carburetors are quite finnicky and need to be squeaky clean to work properly. It ALMOST sounds like a fuel system problem. I have gone back and read your first post, and think the Intake Valve is creating the issue. If the machine runs at 1/2 power, the Intake valve may be slightly bent and not seating completely. Only running at choke and dying when you open the choke indicates a BAD LEAN fuel condition. It is not getting enough fuel to keep running without being choked.
A compression test is not real informative because these engines have a compression release mechanism built on the camshaft. They can go bad, but it is a little rare. If one WAS to go bad, the symptoms would be quite similar with what you are experiencing because the compression release holds one of the valves slightly open on the compression stroke (likely the Intake valve). If your fuel filters are good, and the carb is not dirty.then a bad Intake valve or malfunctioning ACR (Automatic Compression Release) would likely be the culprit. Why not maybe pull the cylinder head if your fuel system is OK and have a GOOD look at that Intake Valve.
When you initially sprayed that valve stem with carb cleaner, you may not have gotten ALL the goo off of it. There could be some more further up the stem and inside the valve guide as well. An Intake valve partially sticking open would create a BAD LEAN condition.
Let me know what you find. I will be here. Just for your info regarding the valves and timing; On the bottom of the cam, there are two lines that should line up with the edge of the valve cover sealing area, and the keyway on the crank is perfectly perpendicular with that line, that is how you check the belt timing. Thanks again for your great advice. I am going to pull the cover this morning and see what the lash looks like on the intake valve.
If it's still to spec, then I'll go right to the carb. If the intake valve lash is 0', and then some, that may indicate trash is clearing from the guide, stem, and seat, No? The timing should be set properly, as the marks on the bottom side of the cam line up properly with the housing. Thanks again for your help.
I'll do some stuff today and post findings. Regards, Bill. Hi bill70j This OHC engine does not actually have a head.
I initially thought it may but it is a different design than a regular OHV motor with pushrods. The case splits in two at an angle, so everything you have seen and inspected so far is pretty much all there is to the top end. The case would have to be split and the piston removed to observe the valve seats. The stems and guides though, you can access under the rocker cover. There is no head to remove.
I know because I wanted to remove the carbon from the piston on one I am currently working on, but would need to split the crankcase to do so. Link removed. I have a Husky pressure washer with a Honda GCV160 engine.
I regularly change the motor oil. The engine started to burn oil at rate of about 1/4 quart every hour of operation. I've rebuilt many small engines in my day and will order replacement valve seals and piston rings. Since I don't have a service manual for this engine and therefore don't know the proper torque values to split the case I will change the valve seals first to see if that fixes the problem. Is there a service manual available with torque values and other important information for the GCV160? Thank you and best regards Eric. Last year I bought Black Max power washer and used it for 1 hour.
I cleaned it and stored it in my heated basement over the winter. I used it again yesterday and after about an hour the washer started to lose power before the engine stopped running. I tried pulling the starter cable and the recoil was really hard. I had vented the wand so there was no pressure in the power nozzle. I checked the plug and it was black with heavy carbon. I cleaned it and reinstalled it but the engine will no longer start and the power required to pull the cord it excessive.
I called Black Max and they told me to call Honda. I called Honda and they said to call an engine repair shop. Any ideas before I do that?
Home Depot has a lawn mower with the Honda GCV160 Electric start version engine. They also have a pressure washer with the Honda GCV160 engine. I have a disability that makes it difficult to pull the starter rope. I would like to get the electric start on the pressure washer. My local Honda bike shop service center said they use different blocks. Can I get a pressure washer pump mounted to the Honda GCV160 Electric start version engine?
If necessary, are there adapter plates that can be purchased or manufactured for this application? Please help, Thank you. I have a Husky pressure washer with a Honda GCV160 engine.
It is about two years old anf has been used very little. Last Fall I used it and the engine ran'lumpy' hunting RPM, low power. I drained the fuel, ran the carb out and put it in the barn. LAst week I filled the fuel tank and have trouble: It starts on full choke but as soon as I move the choke the slightest bit the engine coughs and dies. Took the carb off cleaned all with Berrymans, blew out passages, visually checked orfices and float/valve.
All look fine carb is spotless but same problem. Also checked fuel tank filter and hoses and shot off valve, fual fills carb quickly. QUOTE=gerryrigger;70280How challenging is it to replace the coil assembly on my honda gcv160 engine?
It is used on a lawn mowe.' On a scale of 1 (no effort) to 10 (tough) it's a 2. Just did it today along with quite a few other replacements (carb, gas tank, starter pulley, etc.) on a GVC160 that caught on fire. The key is to use the shadow (clean spots) beneath the mounting bolt heads to position it corrrectly before you finally tigthen it down. Then turn the flywheel to make sure the flywheel and coil aren't in contact. Hello, I need some help getting the correct crankshaft for my lawnmower.
I have already had two crankshafts delivered to me with both of them being incorrect. The engine model, serial and type numbers are listed below: GJAEA-4383873 Type MD9. (See Attached Picture) I have tried the following part numbers but to no avail: 06131-Z8D-W50: Dimensions for this crankshaft were good but the diameter of the rod journal was to large 06131-Z8B-W00: Rod Journal was the correct size but the lower portion of the crankshaft that the blade attaches to was the wrong diameter and did not have the right key ways cut into it. Please see the picture below for the crankshaft that came out of my engine: The Model and Serial Number of the Lawn Mower it was installed on is as follows: Model Number: HRR2163VXA Serial Number: MZCG-7303526 Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Did you ever find this part? QUOTE=1732Hello, I need some help getting the correct crankshaft for my lawnmower. I have already had two crankshafts delivered to me with both of them being incorrect. The engine model, serial and type numbers are listed below: GJAEA-4383873 Type MD9. (See Attached Picture) I have tried the following part numbers but to no avail: 06131-Z8D-W50: Dimensions for this crankshaft were good but the diameter of the rod journal was to large 06131-Z8B-W00: Rod Journal was the correct size but the lower portion of the crankshaft that the blade attaches to was the wrong diameter and did not have the right key ways cut into it.
Please see the picture below for the crankshaft that came out of my engine: The Model and Serial Number of the Lawn Mower it was installed on is as follows: Model Number: HRR2163VXA Serial Number: MZCG-7303526 Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hello, folks. I'm the.very. lucky owner of not ONE but TWO.wonderful. Honda GCV 160 powered devices, and both of them are a dream come true.
Sarcasm Does anyone know where I can get a repair manual for this engine? The 160 on my lawnmower refuses to run correctly. It will run fine for a few minutes from cold, but it starts to cough, sputter, backfire then die. I can run it for 30 seconds before it dies again.
I've checked the carb and it's fine. Nothing plugged, fresh gas; no varnish. My next guess is to check the timing, and I've got a good handle on how to approach that from reading posts on this forum. Is there anything else I can check, such as ignition?
Thanks for all your help. I'm moving in two months and would rather try to get as much life out of this mower before I leave.
I agree with 30YT that it's probably a fuel problem as opposed to ignition. The timing would not change on a running motor. It's typically either good or bad and the things that would cause it to change on a running motor are all pretty unlikely scenarios.
I have seen magnetos(ignition modules) be intermittent and the best way to check that is with a gap type tester that you leave in series with the plug and watch the spark with the engine running. When the engine begins to shut down, if the spark is going away, that's a good indicator it is the cause of the shutdown. If it isn't, I'd make the leap of faith that the ignition is probably OK and your problem is elsewhere(most likely fuel delivery). In addition to inspecting and cleaning the carb, have you tried loosening the gas cap and running it.
If the vent is plugged in the cap it will run for some period of time till the bowl is empty and then stop. Restarting can be difficult. Finally, regarding the manual.
You can get them from HelmInc.com. Honda distributes their manuals through them.
Here is the link for your manual. (I haven't seen these on line anywhere for free) Let us know how you make out. Hi all, I'm a new member from Orange County, California, USA. I need some hints for the GCV160. Mine won't start - it stopped in mid-operation.
Thought the kill switch went bad but it's OK. Changed spark plug, replaced gas. Still no start. It might be bad gas - I have never stabilized the gas, but didn't worry about it since I use it every week normally, and there is no off-season in this part of the country. I guess I need to get into the carb, etc, but would like to look at a repair manual first so I don't mess something up. I like to repair things, but would like to know the tricks.
Appreciate any help. First thing to know is that I know almost nothing about small engines. I hit a baseball while cutting the grass. The engine stalled. I started it up again, but pulling the cord was hard. After starting, a puff of white smoke came out of the exhaust. I lifted the mower up and saw that the two blades were locked together.
That wasn't how they were when I looked before. The two blades run separately, right? Do they turn in the same direction or counter each other? Have I destroyed the gears? Should I try in dislodge the two blades from each other?
First thing to know is that I know almost nothing about small engines. I hit a baseball while cutting the grass. The engine stalled. I started it up again, but pulling the cord was hard. After starting, a puff of white smoke came out of the exhaust. I lifted the mower up and saw that the two blades were locked together.
That wasn't how they were when I looked before. The two blades run separately, right?
Do they turn in the same direction or counter each other? Have I destroyed the gears? Should I try in dislodge the two blades from each other?Unless you can tell that one of the blades is bent, then they are mounted together and turn together in the same direction. They do not turn independently from each other, nor in opposite directions. This is a mulching setup that Honda uses. Hitting the baseball may have sheared the flywheel key that times the ignition spark, but it's unusual on a Honda as their key's are steel. If your mower starts up and runs alright, then the oil may have come from when you tipped the mower over to look at the blades.
If you tipped the mower over with the air filter facing down, you may have contaminated the air filter with oil. If there is oil in the air filter element, you will need to replace the air filter element as they cannot be cleaned.