Tecumseh Hmsk80 Manual Replace Fuel Line
Eighteen months ago I wrote about how to adjust the brakes on a lawn tractor because I couldn't find the information myself when I searched. It's turned out to be one of the most appreciated articles on the site, and I still get 'thank you' notes on it regularly. In that spirit, here's a similar article for owners of Tecumseh engines on snow throwers (aka snowblowers) and lawn mowers. The same thing has happened again. I found very little helpful information on this problem when I searched, so I'm writing it up. Let me be clear first - I like MTD products. They tend to be on the lower end of the price scale, but I find their designs are wonderfully innovative and simplified.
They don't take an expensive product and cheapen it with bad parts. They find simpler ways to get the job done, and often they're really great solutions. I wish I'd kept my old MTD mower instead of replacing it with a Deere,. I have a Tecumseh 8hp engine on. Over the years, I've had to tear down and clean out the carburetor a couple of times due to the weird crap we've got in gasoline now. One year the whole thing was full of blue crystalline material. Once or twice it was just accumulated corrosion and there's always a little dirt.
Starting this fall I've noticed a small amount of fuel leakage and it's been running rough. It didn't leak much, but that's because a long time ago I'd added a cheap in-line that I use when the unit is not in operation. I normally shut off the fuel at the valve and let it run until the carb is empty when I put it away to help keep the carb clean. Since I don't like to drip gasoline (and more important, I don't like to drop toxic MTBE) all over the place, I wanted to fix this leak as quickly as possible. I knew I'd have to take the carburetor off to fix this leak, so while I was at it I decided to clean it out and do. It's not terribly difficult and as long as the carb is off the engine anyway you may as well spend $11 and replace the little seals and needles that wear out. Here's where I ran into trouble.
I did the work, put it back together, and it still leaked. If anything, it leaked more. Fuel would seem to gather at the bottom of the fuel bowl (keep in mind, the picture is upside down, the fuel bowl hangs below the carburetor) and it would drip about one drop every ten seconds as long as there was fuel in the carb. Since the fuel is very clear and the bowl is that silver color, it was extremely hard to see where it was actually coming from.
I assumed for a long time that my leak was at the fuel inlet needle adjustment bolt at the bottom of the fuel bowl, or else the drain assembly (which is just a spring holding a seal in place). I must have taken it apart 20 times, make sure the seals were good, put it back together and added fuel - only to find the leak was still there. What should have been a job of an hour or two at most, took all of one day and into the next morning.
I searched on the internet for other people having the same problem, and the most I found was a comment from someone saying 'sometimes they leak after you rebuild them.' That's not an answer. I finally found the problem by accident. I was draining the carb (again) to remove it (again) and happened to be looking very closely at it while pressing the primer bulb to get as much fuel out as I could (with the fuel line shut off). Under the air pressure from the primer bulb, I saw a very thin stream of fuel shooting out the bottom of the fuel bowl - right near the nut, but not actually from there. Inspired by frustration, I cleaned out the bowl again and took it into a dark closet where I shone a very small but very bright LED flashlight into the bowl - and discovered a couple of tiny pin-hole leaks right at the curve near the middle of the fuel bowl. Apparently time, vibration, and corrosion from the toxic mess they call gasoline now had thinned the metal bowl so much that these tiny pin-holes - too small be seen without help - could form.
So, the moral of this long story is - if your snow thower, lawn mower, or other Tecumseh powered machine is leaking fuel, especially after doing a simple carb rebuild, it may be a similar problem. When you clean out carb, you're actually making the problem worse by making the hole bigger. Keep in mind, these tiny holes are so small, that testing it by putting water in the bowl didn't help. Water has surface tension sufficient that without pressure it didn't drip. Once I knew about the problem, I coated the outside of the bowl with some two-part epoxy, put a little crazy glue gel on the hole on the inside (both two part epoxy and cyanoacrylate are fairly resistant to gasoline) and re-assembled the unit.
Leak stopped. I've ordered the replacement bowl and drain spring assembly for about ten bucks and will put them on when it warms up a bit.
In the mean time, the seal I made should hold. Thanx for the confirmation. I have a 30 year old Mainline roto-tiller, with an Italian ACME engine, which I haven't used in 2 years. And naturally. The last time I used it, I didn't drain the float bowl. Or run the carb dry.
Just spent 3 hours cleaning the carb with acetone, ether and even a vacuum cleaner. When placed up against the gas inlet, the latter is great for sucking the last l'il bit of varnish out of those pinholes. Finally, I saw the gas running out of the bottom of the float bowl,- success! - so I put the screw back in the bottom of it. Gasoline continued to drip. Then I noticed same problem that you had - an almost microscopic pinhole or two near the bottom of the bowl. So I've cleaned it, and dripped 'crazy glue' cyanoacrilate ($1.50 at the dollar-store) over the suspected holes.
No epoxy handy - I'll pick up some next time I'm in town. Until then I hope the crazy glue is a sufficient plug.
BTW, dealer (in Kentucky) told me thata new float bowl is no longer available, and said a new carb kit would be $250. HE suggested the $5 epoxy!
May I add some information BECAUSE of all the hours I've spent on a few of my snowblowers and what I've since found out, often the hard way? When taking apart your carb and you know it worked at some time and wasn't put together in backwards ways, take a picture of it at a few angles. It will help later. The fuel bowl: there's a dip on the bottom of it, that dip goes towards the sparkplug. The deeper part will point outward and the spring-loaded fuel dump aims/goes towards the front of the snowblower. The Needle and clip: look at it closely to make sure there's no crud under it where it inserts into the seat.
Look closely at that seat, they do eventually wear out and/or rot if you're constantly getting bad gas, water in it and ice crystals etc. The seat is made out of polyurethane/teflon material or something like it and it usually can last a long time even with it constantly being soaked with gas. If you ever replace a seat, use a dentist-type pick to pull it out and remember that the curved part of it (very slight difference from opposite side) GOES DOWN and back into the seat. The needles wire clip ONLY Goes in one direction when you re-install it. The wire end points towards the choke's lever ie: where your throttle, choke lever selector, plastic key etc. If you do happen to take apart your carb and remove the float and needle etc., do it inside of a box that still has some sides to it and whatever might fly out, stays in the box.
Trust me, I've done this on a limestone driveway and I've lost parts AND after replacing them (inconvenience of course), I've found them months later. If ever going to a parts place, buy a spare needle and clip.
That metal tang under the float (old floats are often brass, new ones can be plastic), DO NOT bend that tang, do NOT change the angle! If your o-ring/bowl's gasket is worn, it'll cause problems. Even if it looks like it fits, it's often deceiving; have a spare around for later in life. If your bowl is corrode, it shouldn't be repaired unless it's a temp. Fix until you get a new one.
For a fixed jet type, the tiny holes in the bolt/jet at the bottom of the bowl, DO get clogged with stuff. Recently mine were little bits of rubber from the fuel line and if you miss one, it'll cause problems.
Use a single strand of wire or a sewing needle to clean out the holes, do NOT enlarge them so use something smaller than their holes. Fuel line/fuel hose, usually 1/4' inside diameter, corded rubber and the outside diameter is usually 7/16' It's about $1.40 per foot and it doesn't hurt to buy 2-3 feet and always have it on hand for spare. Handy if you have a bad shutoff and need to remove it and must plug the line temporarily. If you're going to take apart your carb and the adjustable screws for jet, idle speed, idle mixture etc.
Were known to have been pretty well set to where they should be AND you have a slight problem with knowing where 1 1/2 turns in/out could be for initial setting (an example) then you can measure the distance from the head to a fixed point on the carb body etc. Rather than use technical terms etc., I've often just marked things to my own liking, measured where a screw and spring might be turned in/out and later returned to those points for initial settings-MY initial settings. The old adage about 'initial 1 1/2 turns out is sometimes hard to do if you drove the screw in further than others would and so on. I had two 8hp Tecumseh models and both had their screws set differently although both ran good/the same. If it don't run or start, it's usually only a few things that can go wrong-normal things IF engine will still work: Fuel, old or new, water, foreign objects in it. My example of rubber bits plugging holes. Pull the plug, connect it and set it near a metal part (or have someone hold it with a pair of rubber-gripped pliers and hold near metal; the plug's hole is a good ground).
Look for spark when cranking over the engine or pulling on the start cord. Fuel: I have been getting it from Shell for awhile now. Years ago had a problem with water in their gas so I stopped buying from there. Recently had a big problem with not one BUT 3 snowblowers-stinking Shell gas! All during summer months I put my fuel into the gerry cans while at the gas station, then into 1 or 2-liter plastic drink bottles so itwas easier to pour into mowers, scooters, chainsaws etc.
Usually you can see if there are any foreign objects in such bottles. For water in gas, you'll definitely see that garbage.
I filled up 4 gerry cans, 2 large, 2 small. When I got home I filled up some snowblowers and since I was using different machines at different times, when the problems popped up, I thought it was because we had rain (we've had lots of snow already) and the engines were acting up. Eventually dumped all the fuel into pop bottles and yup, water in everything and it did separate when in the bottles. That fuel was burned up in outdoor firepits because you can't fix the problem of water into gas. I've now placed fuel/water separaters on my snowblowers' fuel lines and if you don't go that far, at least get a cheaper paper filter and use in inline. At my local stores they are less than $3 and you can see the paper filament inside and any crap that was in the gas. Long post but a lot of you will save yourself some frustration if you keep most of it in mind.
Lots of videos on YouTube to help BUT if you don't have online capabilities nearby when fixing the machine, here goes: The carb settings IF the screw under your carb bowl IS adjustable. ABOUT 1 1/2 turns OUT after you just screwed it in (gently, don't whale on it to drive it into the bowl).
That's a.k.a fuel mixture screw. IF your idle mixture screw IS adjustable (it's the one right above the bracket that holds your outer cover on), initially 1 1/4 turns OUT. Your engine idle speed screw at top of carb's body will be at about the middle of the screws total length. If you haven't touched it at any time, leave it alone. IF you have a fuel problem of some kind and want a quick test, remove the spark plug and shoot some fresh fuel into the port/hole, replace plug, attach plug wire and crank over engine. Obviously make sure throttle is on/up, choke etc. If it starts and stalls, then you have a fuel problem in the carb or the fuel line since it started with a shot of gas in there.
Yes you can even run a motor WITHOUT a carb and manifold(s) attached IF you know how to meter fuel going to a running motor. I've done this with automobiles and motor cycles too. Pollack, Thanks 4 the info I will keep it in my 'memory bank ' just in case I ever have that problem.
You do seem well informed so I need your help with a problem their so called 'service technician' could not help me with. I have a M.T.D. Model 611, 2 stage snowthrower. My wife bought it for me in 1998 and it has performed GREAT! I wish all of my toys worked that well. Anyways, this past winter when I was throwing snow the idle ( or throttle ) kept going down.
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It doesnt stall but its a pain having to keep turning the throttle up every 5 seconds. I took the cover off the carburetor and I see 1 spring but I dont know if there should be 2 springs. For the last month of winter I had a piece of fishing line tied to the throttle handle so I could keep the speed up.
Any help you could give me would be great. We live in Northern Michigan just a 1/3 mile off the mighty Lake Michigan and when we get a clipper.we get some snow and without a good running snowthrower I will have BIG problems! Have you or any of your acquaintances ever ran into a 'sliding throttle'? Or do you have a schematic of that carburetor? Any help Sir, will be Greatly appreciated. Thanking You in advance,I am. Hi Phil - I wish I could help you on that.
I don't know of anything that would cause what you describe, but I'm not a tech for these things by trade. I'm just a guy who has to fix his sometimes and I post what I learn.
The cable from the throttle lever to the carb should be just essentially like a bicycle break cable. It shouldn't need a spring to hold it open. If it was mine, I'd probably take it apart and figure out how it works.
If that isn't helping you, don't take it to a big dealership. Find your most local coupon style neighborhood news paper and look for something like 'Charles small engine repairs'. That's the guy who will be able to fix it for a few bucks. The leaking carbuerator again a problem two years in a row here. My local repair/dealer repaired it last year. I did all and more to drain/witerized the unit only to have it today literally spew gas all over-even gushing from the rubber 'primer' button hole. When it runs it runs well but I've had nothing but problems with my TORO unit each year.
Doing your own repair subject to damaging it more in addition to not having the required tools for all the screw heads etc. Flick - I agree with your point that DIY isn't for everyone, and not having the right tools is a real problem.
A good set of metric and english hex wrenches isn't expensive, but if you don't do other kinds of work, it may not make sense. There is also the practice factor.
Feeling your way through a repair job is a skill like any other, and has to be developed over time. On the other hand, I think you give way too much credit to the guys at the local repair shop, assuming they always use the right tools and are trained to make the right repair. Frequently, neither is true. My craftsman snow blower just started doing the same thing. Wouldnt start a few weeks ago. Found out there was no gas in it, so i put about 1/2 tank in. Started right up.
Not long after, i noticed a small drip coming from the carb area. This weekend, I finally had nice weather to check it out, and found the problem. The PLASTIC fuel inlet fitting (90 degree elbow) coming from the tank and connecting to the side of the carb had a small crack on the top. Very hard to see unless you watch the gas dripping from it. I removed it, and mixed up some epoxy and coated the entire crack, inside and out. Works like a charm until I can order a replacement!
Have Tecumseh 8 HP engine on snow blower - was leaking gas by the carb bowl to the point the entire gas tank would drain. Took it to a small engine shop and they said it was dirty carb.
They cleaned the carb and it still leaked, I figured it was the carb so ordered a new one on line and yesterday went to replace it. Once replaced - it still leaked. Come to find out - the fuel line had a nick in it right where it attached to the carb and this was the source of the problem. So start with the basic stuff first.
I got a 1987 Ariens snowblower with a Tecumseh Hs50 for free. Started but gas poured out the intake. Got a new bowl, float, seat, needle and seals. Rebuilt the carb and passed a wire through every nook and cranny, followed by a dousing of carb cleaner. Put it all back together and gas still pours out the intake. I read that you need to bend the metal tab on the float to force the needle into the seat chamber more. Did that 100 times until I found the spot where the float is inoperable because the tab is bent too much.
Backed it off and it still pours out gas. It is almost like the float isn't rising when gas fills the bowl.so the fuel flow isn't shutoff. I can't figure it out. I also read that the end of the float clip should point toward the engine.now I saw on hear that it should point toward the choke.
Too many variables.it shouldn't be this difficult for such a simple mechanism. Hi Andrew, I am operating a MDT snow thrower (277cc ZS 478SU Engine) that has operated for two winters without a hitch until one night before this weekend's NE Blizzard (don't cha know!) when fuel was added to the tank. Without even trying to start the engine, fuel dumped out of the engine back near the carburetor. You extensively covered one aspect of leakage (pin hole in bowl), and many others were saved by the detail of your replies, but my major gushing problem appears to originate at the junction of the rear of the carb, where it connects to the 'heater box.'
Curiously, there is a metal on metal connection with no gasket, and no covering over the area of the choke mechanism, adjacent to where the breather hose enters the heater box. It leaks even more when you press down on handles to lift the auger, since the choke compartment is open. I don't recall any leakage in prior operation, why this now?
What do you suggest?? Keep in mind that I'm not an MDT mechanic or anything. Backtracking a bit from your description though can tell us a lot.
There should not be enough fuel in the carb to 'pour out' from where the carb connects to the intake. That should only be passing a fuel air mixture as the engine runs - drawn in by engine vacuum. Given that, the problem is probably that the float is stuck down, or the needle isn't seating against the fuel inlet port inside the carb. In either of those cases, fuel is flowing directly through the intake hose into the bowl of the carb, overflowing, and going where it should not. Hitting it lightly with a mallet may unstick it, if that's the only issue - but more likely the float needs replacement and/or the needle needs cleaning and replacement. A carb rebuild kit is in your future.
While you're at it, I'd suggest adding a fuel shut off valve in the fuel line just below the fuel tank. I think it's nuts that such a thing isn't included with the machine. I hope it's a bowl hole and not the carb because I don't know anything about seals or pins, etc. My question is, 'how do I remove the carburetor cover from a Tecumseh HS40 snow thrower?
I have removed the two small screws and the key but the red choke switch is still holding the cover down. I cannot see a set screw in the knob and can't pull it straight out either (like a stove knob). I don't want to break anything before I try to fix the first issue. What do you suggest? More force or am I missing the real reason that I cannot remove the cover? Other Recent Stories. We need to address some biases here.
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This video shows how to replace the fuel line on most Tecumseh snow blower engines. This specific model is an 8HP Tecumseh HMSK80, however the idea applies to most of the other tecumseh snow engines. The fuel line used is a braided low pressure gas line with 1/4 inch inner diameter and 1/2 inch outer diameter. You can also install a right angle fuel valve ( part # 698181) or a straight angle fuel valve (part # 698183).
Disclaimer Due to factors beyond the control of Alex S “Multikhaz”, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Alex S “Multikhaz” assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Alex S “Multikhaz” recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Alex S “Multikhaz” no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.
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